
One time, in my early twenties, I lived in Ireland for a few years. Way out on the Mizen Peninsula with my then boyfriend in a very old stone cottage nestled in some trees and surrounded by old stone outbuildings. Not sure why or how, we just kind of blew in there one day and stayed, as you do. No running water, no bathroom and our total drain on the electric grid was a couple of feeble lightbulbs.
Water was hauled in buckets from an old stone well at the other end of the vegetable garden, heating and cooking achieved after much wood chopping to feed an old range and a bath was when you hauled and heated enough water to make a decent showing in the old tin tub you would drag inside for the event.
Life was most definitely harder than the flick a switch, turn a tap days i had known thus far, but there is something incredibly satisfying when you peel it back a few layers and get things done yourself another way. Living that way meant spending a lot of time outside, rain or shine, just to get your daily living done. We knew the sky, the sea, the hedgerows, the weather and all their changing faces well.
It didn’t snow very often down there in West Cork, but water was a pretty constant companion much of the year. Either just plain old dumping rain, or what the locals called a ‘Soft Day’, which just meant you were living inside a cloud. Needless to say, wool was rather popular in our house. It repelled water, stayed warm even when it was wet, didn’t need to be washed so much and didn’t hold a pongy ‘guess who just chopped wood’ smell. Longjohns, socks, hats, sweaters etc etc. We loved us some wool so we did!
As did the farmers and fishermen of the Aran Islands. Located just off the coast of Galway in the west of Ireland, the Aran Islands are famous for their woolen Aran sweaters. Having usually to deal with more than a ‘soft day’ the hardy Aran Islanders have rain and seawater coming at them sideways regularly. Although beautifully decorative with their cables and diamond stitching, the Aran sweater was part of a survival wardrobe to keep them safe and warm in a brutal environment. They used to leave more of the sheeps lanolin on the wool than you will find in a sweater today, which keep them even more water repellent. The stitching patterns are said tell stories to those who know how to read them about clans and their identities. The Aran Islanders are still a hardy bunch out there on the rocks as their famous Aran Sweater woos the world.
As gray as a day may be on Ireland’s west coast sometimes there is something incredibly magical about the place. When the sun finally cracks through the clouds the landscape just comes to life with colors like I have never seen anywhere else in the world. It is a culture and landscape that makes a home in your heart and the Irish take that with them, across oceans and down through generations wherever they go.